Lingerie Patents

Below is the diagram and description of the garment invented by Henry Lesher in 1859. The garment had shields to absorb perpiration and inflatable pads built in when one breast was larger than the other. However, this garment was not intended for breast support.

The Design

 The Patent

Below are the diagrams and descriptions for Mary Jacob Phelps garment patented November 3, 1914. This item was not designed a breast supporter, rather it goes over the breasts much like a t-shirt or camisole.  It was a corset cover, designed to be worn with low cut evening gowns to "cover the top of the corset and hold the wearer in proper form". It is fastened by strings which wrap around the back and tie in the front. No modern bra fastens this way. So, why is Mary Jacob Phelps credited by so many to be the inventor of the modern day bra?

The Design

The Patent

Below is Marie Tucek's invention from 1893. Indeed it resembles the modern day bra and is reminicent of an underwire bra. However, it is designed to support the breasts from below via the metal plate "A"..  It is not meant to cover the breast nor to give support from above. There is no discussion about how to give support to the pockets "B". The way it is designed, it would probably not give much support to a large breast which would likely simply hang over the edge of the metal. This brassiere was never marketed for obvious reasons.

The Design

The Patent

Below is Oliva P. Flynt's 1876 patent for her "Bust Supporter". It is clear that this is the invention of the modern day bra:

• Having individual pockets for the breasts and weight bearing shoulder straps, it was designed and intended for no other purpose than to support and shape the breasts. She writes that her garment is "specially designed as a bust supporter and improver", Further, "the garment sustains the bust from the shoulders and at the same time presses upon the lower portion of the bust and above the body and under the arms and holds or presses up the lower portion of the bust". She also writes "The function and the garment fitted to the form prevents the bust from descending uncomfortably low".
• While in the diagram it appears to go over the clothing, this was likely due to the modesty of the times. She writes that her garment "is to be worn next to the body or outside the undervest as suits the wearer"
• Unlike many other inventions, this garment was NOT intended to be used together with a corset, she writes that it "will be used instead and take the place of a corset, thereby enabling beauty of form to be preserved without lacing or otherwise injuriously pressing or binding the body."
• She even foresaw the padded bra: "Those double bust pieces are not stitched together but left open in order to form a pocket for the insertion of padding material, should it be required to improve the outline or form of the bust"
• There are some that state that the shoulder straps are too big to look like a modern bra. But the size of the shoulder straps is clearly NOT relevant to her invention. She writes on the second page, paragraph 3: "That portion of the garment extending over the shoulder may be made narrower and may be made more or less high in the neck....and may be trimmed with lace or other ornaments".

Writing years before other inventors, describing details which are more in common with the modern day bra, and having created a design with most of its features still in use today, Oliva Flynt should be recognized as the inventor of the brassiere. 

The Design

  The Patent